Bacon Unwrapped

Friday, May 23, 2008

Bacon in Bon Appetit (6/08)

From the June issue of Bon Appetit magazine...

  • Porta Via Italian Foods in Pasadena, CA serves a BLT panini with pesto mayonnaise.
  • Happy Belly Foods, a street food vendor in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, offers a BLGT (the G stands for guacamole) on their menu.
  • Continuing with the BLT theme...for another variation, try BLT Chicken with Rosemary-Lemon Mayonnaise.
  • When conducting a food tour of the South, it's hard not to be tempted by delicious pork products. At Hal & Mal's in Jackson, Mississippi, they serve a grilled bacon and pimiento cheese sandwich spiced up with diced jalapeno peppers.
  • At The Alluvian Hotel and Spa in Greenwood, Mississippi, a standard breakfast consists of fluffy scrambled eggs, perfectly cooked bacon, biscuits, and a "scone of the day."
  • At L&M's Kitchen and Salumeria in Oxford, Mississippi, you can find a delicious display of cured meats including guanciale, pancetta, and house bacon in brown sugar, salt and pepper.

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Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Bacon in Food & Wine (6/08)

From the June issue of Food & Wine Magazine...

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Monday, April 28, 2008

Bacon in Food & Wine (5/08)

From the May issue of Food & Wine Magazine...

  • Chef Rob Evans of Hugo’s Restaurant in Portland, Maine highlights restaurants he and his wife visited during their cross country motorcycle ride for their honeymoon. Binkley’s in Cave Creek, Arizona was one of his favorites - he especially enjoyed the pancetta wrapped trotter.
  • Mario Batali shares a recipe for pancetta wrapped asparagus with citronette.
  • The restaurant Harvest in Boston is listed as one of Food & Wine’s top restaurants of 2008. The editors loved the restaurant’s Crispy Kurobuta pork belly BLT.
  • Another favorite restaurant of the Food & Wine staff is Herbsaint in New Orleans. They recommend the “bacony pan-roasted chicken with shell beans.”
  • If you find yourself in Montreal, visit Kitchen Galerie and order the cocotte of roasted root vegetables with lardons.
  • For a Mediterranean style meal, try Pasta with Rosemary and Onion-Orange Marmelade, a dish that features finely chopped pancetta.

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Saturday, April 26, 2008

Bacon in Bon Appetit (5/08)

From the May issue of Bon Appetit Magazine...

  • A reader from Los Angeles asked the editors of the magazine to track down a recipe for Hawaiian Seafood Chowder as prepared by the chef of Palm Terrace on the island of Oahu. This Polynesian favorite is made with thick cut bacon and lots of fresh seafood.
  • Bacon and swiss chard pasta is a quick, vitamin rich meal to make for dinner.
  • New Orleans Shrimp, Okra and Tomato Saute is also an easy weeknight meal to make, and bacon is one of the ingredients that makes this dish so hearty and filling.
  • Orangette Molly Wizenberg reflects on her study abroad experience in Paris during college and her host mother’s cooking. Molly was exposed to a wide range of traditional French cooking, most notably the cheese souffle, but also everyday classics such as a casserole made with cheese, potatoes, onion, bacon and cream.
  • Alex Palermo, a Los Angeles-based restaurateur, travels to the Italian region of Umbria where he tastes local dishes such as Pancetta Roast Chicken with Walnut Stuffing and Peas with Onions and Guanciale.

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Wednesday, April 09, 2008

Bacon in Bon Appetit (4/08)

From the April issue of Bon Appetit magazine...

  • James Villas' The Bacon Cookbook (see my interview with James Villas here) receives yet another mention in a food magazine as a book recommended by the magazine's contributors.
  • Bistro Daisy in New Orleans serves oysters on a bed of wilted fennel and spinach tossed with chunks of smoky bacon.
  • In an article dedicated to the egg and its many uses for meals at anytime of the day, Orecchiette Carbonara with Leeks is suggested as a dinner dish that marries eggs with applewood smoked bacon.

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Friday, April 04, 2008

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (4/08)

As with the April issue of Saveur, the April issue of Gourmet Magazine also focuses on Italian cuisine. But there aren't many references to cured pork products. The only thing worth mentioning is a receipe for Venetian rice and peas that is quick and easy to make, and calls for 1/4 pound sliced pancetta.

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Bacon in Meatpaper Magazine (Winter 2007)

From the Winter 2007 issue of Meatpaper Magazine...

  • A store called Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market might seem like the last place you would find a product described as "bacon-flavored ham," but this store in Oakland's Chinatown is fulfilling vegetarians' secret meat desires with "fake meat" products made from soy powder and wheat gluten.

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Thursday, April 03, 2008

Bacon (or rather, Pancetta) in Saveur Magazine (4/08)

From the April issue of Saveur Magazine...

  • This month's issue of Saveur explores the numerous variations on ragu sauce that can be found in Bologna, Italy. A traditional ragu alla bolognese usually consists of "battuto - the foundation of almost every soup, sauce, and stew in the Italian canon - by slowly cooking finely chopped celery, onions, and carrots in butter, olive oil, lard, pancetta, or a combination thereof."
  • According to the Accademia Italiana della Cucina, the official recipe for classic ragu alla bolognese is one that starts with a 5 ounce piece of pancetta.
  • Ragu di Fegato di Pollo (Ragu Enriched with Chicken Livers) also gets its flavor from pancetta.
  • Anna Nanni's Ragu alla Bolognese is seasoned with pancetta and is "slightly tangy, owing to the addition of canned tomatoes." A recipe for Lasagne Verdi al Forno suggests using Anna Nanni's ragu for the sauce.
  • Anna Maria Monari, chef-owner of Trattoria Anna Maria in Bologna, makes a ragu that "always includes lard from pork and pancetta."
  • Last, in a story from Queens, New York about a Russian dinner party inspired by 19th Century St. Petersburg aristocracy, Borscht - a classic beet soup flavored with smoked bacon - is a featured dish.

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Thursday, March 13, 2008

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (3/08)

From the March issue of Gourmet Magazine...

  • An article that celebrates the comforts of French bistro dining features a recipe for Salade Tiede Aux Oeufs En Meurette (warm frisee-lardon salad with poached eggs in red-wine sauce). This take on the traditional French frisee salad calls for slab bacon to be cut into lardons.
  • If anyone knows comfort food, it's people from the Alsatian region of France and Germany. A recipe for Trout Choucroute suggests taking "the best of traditional choucroute garni - smoked pork married to sauerkraut that's had its bite removed by being simmered in wine with bay and juniper - and lightens it up, paring it with another Alsatian favorite, trout."
  • Bacon "Pastry Slices" are a variation on croque-monsieur using streaky bacon or pancetta.

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Friday, March 07, 2008

Bacon in Bon Appetit Magazine (3/08)

From the March issue of Bon Appetit...

  • Of course an article about dining in Atlanta would mention bacon. Restaurant Eugene in Buckhead serves a Benton's bacon-wrapped Georgia trout with cornmeal spoon bread for Sunday supper.
  • Wisteria Restaurant offers an iron-skillet chicken with bacon-braised collard greens and a roasted sweet corn pudding.
  • Fergus Henderson has released a sequel to his book The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating. Beyond Nose to Tail is a continuation of his cooking adventures featuring the noble pig and many other fine animals.

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Thursday, March 06, 2008

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (2/08)

There were only a couple bacon-related items in the February issue of Gourmet Magazine. Here they are:

  • A delicious dinner of Orecchiette with Pancetta and Broccoli can be prepared in just 10 minutes.
  • Pair a meatloaf made with prunes and bacon with a bottle of Zinfandel.

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Thursday, February 07, 2008

Bacon in Food and Wine Magazine (2/08)

In the February 2008 issue of Food and Wine Magazine...

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Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Bacon in Saveur Magazine (2/08)

I've added another magazine to the list of magazines I comb for bacon references on a monthly basis. The February issue of Saveur Magazine features their annual list of 100 favorite foods, restaurants, drinks, people, places, and things.

  • #33 on the list are edible weeds. The editor suggests following "the Italian tradition of steaming and sauteing young dandelion leaves with bacon to temper their astringency."
  • #60 on the list are the new breed of independent butchers who are opening shops around the country. Tanya Cauthen of Belmont Butchery in Richmond, Virginia sells pancetta she makes onsite.
  • The article about independent butchers is accompanied by a photo of Joshua and Jessica Appleston of Fleisher's in Kingston, New York. In the photo, Joshua does bacon pround with his "Bacon - The Gateway Meat" t-shirt.
  • #78 on the list is founder of the French cooking school La Varenne, Anne Willan. The article contains a recipe for Coq au Vin prepared with a half slab of bacon

And before I finish this entry, I'd like to take a brief trip back in time to the November 2007 issue of Saveur. The last page of the magazine always includes a candid photo in a monthly feature called "Moment." A co-worker dropped the page from the November issue off at my office a couple days ago, speculating that the photo might be of my arm. Alas it is not, but I have major respect for the person who made this commitment...

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Saturday, January 12, 2008

Bacon in Bon Appetit Magazine (2/08)

In the February 2008 issue of Bon Appetit Magazine...

  • King of Pork Bruce Aidells recommends a recipe for Coffee Marinated Bison Short Ribs braised with bacon.
  • Fresh, locally grown winter vegetables are sometimes hard to find, but turnips are usually good this time of year and one way of preparing them is to coat the turnips with pancetta and sesame seeds for a hearty but healthy side dish.
  • Cinta Senese pigs used to be a common sight in Italian homes, but by 1994 were almost extinct. One Italian farm is committed to regrowing the Cinta Senese population. Guests at the farm are treated to Penne All'Amatriciana with fresh pancetta, along with a variety of other cured meats.
  • Corn and Bacon Pie is a country-style dish made from whole grain cornmeal.
  • The editors make some suggestions for Valentine's Day meals. And for brunch they simply recommend serving some bacon. It's not quite the sophistication we've come to expect from Bon Appetit, but sometimes a simple suggestion is better than making things overly complicated!
  • And last, while this wasn't a feature in the actual magazine, the Bon Appetit homepage is currently featuring a slideshow called "Everything's Better with Bacon" along with 20 recipes for enjoying the Best Meat Ever. I guess they're making up for giving bacon the cold shoulder in last month's issue. WARNING: When you watch the bacon slideshow, have a towel handy to wipe the drool off your computer screen.

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Wednesday, January 02, 2008

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (1/08)

When I picked up the latest copy of Gourmet Magazine and saw that the theme of the month was Southern cooking, I just knew - before I even pulled back the cover - that bacon would be bursting out the seams of this issue. And boy was I right.

  • I actually didn't even have to open the magazine before encountering the first bacon reference. On the cover is a list of a few recipes that are featured inside, and the first item on the list is Fried Chicken with Bacon (aka "fried grease with more fried grease"). It's not often I say this but God bless the South.
  • An article by recently deceased chef and author Edna Lewis attempts to define 'Southern.' Of the many things listed, Miss Lewis declares that "Southern is Bourbon Street and Louis Armstrong. Southern is a seafood gumbo of crab, okra, tomatoes, scallions, onions, green pepper, bacon, garlic, and herbs."
  • A recipe for the previously mentioned seafood gumbo then appears a few pages later. And although it is clearly not seafood, a half pound of chopped bacon is the first ingredient on the list.
  • I only had to turn a couple more pages to find the next recipe involving bacon - Simmered Greens with Cornmeal Dumplings.
  • And with just one more page turn you are greeted by a recipe for Smothered Steak that is cooked in bacon fat and then sprinkled with bacon. Those Southerners really do 'get it'...
  • In an article about the Atlanta restaurant scene, the author veers off track for a moment when he quotes the sous-chef at Watershed who, in defending Atlanta, says "there is a long history of trying to rub the southern off...it's as if Atlanta has always been trying to wipe its fingers clean of bacon grease." Um, perhaps that is the PROBLEM?
  • But the author quickly recovers by mentioning the "braised greens with house-cured bacon" at Bacchanalia which has "emerged as a showcase for local ingredients and regional riffs."
  • Following the article about dining in Atlanta is a recipe for Brown-Butter Creamed Winter Greens that also contains bacon. So I guess Atlanta is still embracing bacon afterall.
  • By the way, while not specifically bacon related, the following description from an article about whole-hog barbecue had me dreaming about moving to North Carolina for a brief moment: "The air surrounding each of the region's top pits is so heavily perfumed with the scent of halved hogs sizzling on a grate, their fat dripping onto white-hot hardwood coals, that your hair, your clothes, and your car will glow with the sweet aroma for hours after you leave."
  • OK, now that I've collected myself again...back to the bacon. Scott Peacock, Edna Lewis' final caretaker and chef at the previously mentioned Watershed, prepares a brunch for friends. "Bacon brings soul-soothing richness to winter salad."
  • Later in the same article about Peacock, the author writes: "We ended the day at Watershed, a sleek, airy restaurant in a former auto-repair shop, and he (Peacock) beams when the kitchen sends out the BLT salad - cool, immaculate iceberg lettuce, heirloom tomatoes, hefty slivers of flavorful bacon, and square, toasty croutons, all tossed gently in a homemade mayonnaise. Peacock is right: This could be the best salad in the world. His mother used to make it in a big Tupperware bowl, and he remembers eating the soggy, delicious leftovers from the refrigerator."
  • The recipe for Fried Chicken with Bacon and Pepper Cream Gravy that was mentioned on the front cover appears towards the end of the magazine in an article suggesting ways to "Get Your Dixie Kicks."
  • In an article about Nashville, a city known well for music and food, the author reminisces about her early childhood in Tennessee when "nothing in the world was dearer to me than a bacon and apple-butter sandwich."

Gourmet definitely made up for Bon Appetit's slacking this month...

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Bacon in Bon Appetit Magazine (1/08)

The January issue of Bon Appetit Magazine is really lacking on the bacon front. Shame shame shame. Following are the only two items in this month's issue:

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Thursday, December 06, 2007

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (12/07)

In the December issue of Gourmet Magazine...

  • Al's Quality Market in Barberton, Ohio uses traditional Eastern European methods for curing pork, including a twice-smoked bacon frosted with garlic and paprika.
  • The new MGM Grand in Detroit hosts a Wolfgang Puck Grille. The seared swordfish with bacon confit and whole-grain mustard is one of the more popular items on the menu.
  • The bacon-wrapped scallops on grits with candied orange at Market Table in NYC can be ordered off the restaurant menu or purchased in the retail shop to take home with you.
  • Blue Pear Bistro in West Chester, PA serves a salad of heirloom beans and arugula that is paired with a tiny slab of pork belly and topped with a deep-fried egg.
  • A young American girl visiting Paris with her family impresses the staff of a local restaurant by ordering (and enjoying) steak tartare, while her parents stick to choucroute and cassoulet.

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Saturday, December 01, 2007

Bacon in Food & Wine Magazine (12/07)

In the December issue of Food & Wine Magazine...

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Friday, November 30, 2007

Bacon in Bon Appetit Magazine (12/07)

In the December issue of Bon Appetit Magazine...

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Thursday, November 01, 2007

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (11/07)

In the November issue of Gourmet Magazine...

  • The editors highlight the 13 best cookbooks of the year, "and for true devotees, The Bacon Cookbook by James Villas, contains explanatory notes on types of bacon and more than a hundred bacon recipes, from a BLT to Portuguese egg and bacon pudding, plus a list of mail-order sources for premium bacon. "Even staunch vegetarians," writes Villas, "are haunted instinctively by the generous, irresistible enticement of bacon, a gustatory seduction that extends to most cultures around the globe."
  • Quick Kitchen offers a recipe for Spicy Calamari with Bacon and Scallions. "Sauteing the squid in the bacon fat adds tons of flavor to the seafood itself. Fried calamari with marinara sauce will be but a distant memory once you try this."
  • Try Hickory Bacon and Roasted Corn Gougeres for an appetizer at Thanksgiving. "These have the lively crisp exterior and cloudlike interior you expect from a gougere, but with an incredibly intense combination of smoky bacon, roasted corn, and extra-sharp Cheddar."
  • Another idea for a Thanksgiving side dish are Roasted Potatoes with Bacon, Cheese, and Parsley. "You've encountered a million potato-bacon-cheese combos in your lifetime, but in retrospect they all seem to be rehearsals for this one...crispness abounds, from the bacon to the slight crust on the roasted potatoes, yielding to creamy, very potatoey interiors."
  • In the Burgenland region of Austria, the author took a road trip with friends "with a wicker hamper of still-warm Backhendl (Austrian-style fried chicken), cabbage slaw, and bacon-dressed potato salad." Later on during the trip, they encounter roast veal with grilled goose liver and bacon polenta at Zur Blauen Gans in Weiden am See.

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Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Bacon in Food & Wine Magazine (11/07)

In the November issue of Food & Wine Magazine...

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Saturday, October 13, 2007

Bacon in Food & Wine Magazine (10/07)

In the October issue of Food & Wine Magazine...

  • At the Seghesio Family Vineyard in Healdsburg, CA, you might be served a creamy risotto with pancetta when participating in their Family Table program at which guests gather in private dining rooms to enjoy the winery's Zinfandels paired with Italian dishes.
  • Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten promotes the idea of cooking with wine with a recipe for Eggplant Ravioli with Gewuerztraminer and Bacon.
  • Hostess-with-the-mostest Alexis Swanson Traina of Swanson Vineyards throws a dinner party that features iceberg wedges with large plum tomatoes, thick cut bacon, and buttermilk dressing. "This salad from Thomas Keller's family-style restaurant, Ad Hoc, in Yountville, California, is a twist on the quintessential American combination of iceberg lettuce, tomato wedges and packaged bacon bits with a mayonnaise dressing. Only the iceberg lettuce wedges stay the same. The tomatoes are oven-roasted, the bacon is cut extra thick and the buttermilk dressing is spiked with chives, mint, and parsley." (I got hungry just typing that...time for lunch.)

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Tuesday, October 09, 2007

Bacon in Gourmet Magazine (10/07)

In the October issue of Gourmet Magazine...

  • Is lard the new olive oil? Why Ossabaws are the not-so-newest hog on the block.
  • Slow-roasted pork belly with smoked maple vinegar and Hakrui turnips make for a fine Fall feast at The Inn at Shelburne Farms in Shelburne, VT.
  • Chef Dan Barber of the restaurant Blue Hill in NYC struggles with a shortage of pork belly when he thinks a restaurant critic is in his dining room (the full story is really entertaining and the outcome serendipitous).
  • Bordeaux Quay in Bristol, England is arguably the most eco-friendly restaurant in the U.K. They also butcher their own pigs and cure their own bacon.
  • Sweet-Potato Hash with Bacon is a quick dish to make for dinner.
  • David Chang of Momofuku in NYC loves all things pork and cooks with it in many innovative ways, "It's a mystical, magical animal,' says Chang of the pig. 'It just tastes good.'" Pork belly is a particular favorite. "I can't work without it," says the chef.
  • More on Chang: "The seductively smoky notes of some of America's best bacon and pork feature in nearly all his dishes. For his apple salad, Chang fries the bacon until it's crisp, then tosses thin apple slices in the warm fat with some lime juice to bring out the fruit's tang."
  • In Sonoma wine country, you can get carbonara with peas at Zazu.

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Saturday, October 06, 2007

Bacon in Bon Appetit (11/07)

In the November issue of Bon Appetit...

  • A recipe for Radicchio Lasagna with Pancetta from Osteria Ca' D'Oro Alla Vedova, a wine bar in Venice, Italy.
  • A recipe for Garlic Roasted Chicken with Fingerling Potatoes and Bacon from The Kitchen Table Bistro in Richmond, VT.
  • What's better than turkey for Thanksgiving? How about a Pancetta-Sage Turkey with Pancetta-Sage Gravy. "Salty Italian bacon flavors both the turkey and the gravy."
  • Use leftover turkey bones from Thanksgiving to make a turkey stock for Turkey Chowder with Wild Rice, Crimini, and Pancetta.
  • If you're tired of cooking after Thanksgiving and need an idea for a quick meal, try Spicy Shrimp and Grits with bacon.

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Thursday, September 27, 2007

Bacon in Bon Appetit (10/07)

In the October issue of Bon Appetit…

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Thursday, August 30, 2007

Bacon in Bon Appetit Magazine (09/07)

In the September issue of Bon Appetit...

  • The editors recently produced a special for the Food Network that highlights America's three best restaurants in the categories of pizza, steak, tacos, hamburgers, fried chicken, and ribs. One of the steakhouse finalists is Peter Luger's in Brooklyn, which is also known for their bacon appetizer.
  • One of the hamburger joints that was highlighted in the best restaurants article is Taylor's Automatic Refresher in St. Helena, California. The item on the menu that the editors recommend ordering is the bacon cheeseburger with garlic fries.
  • In the taco category, Taqueria del Sol in Atlanta serves a BLT taco.
  • In an interview with actor and R&B singer Usher, the artist talks about how he loves to cook breakfast, including "pancakes, eggs any style, bacon. I have to clean and cook at the same time. I turn on some music and dance in the kitchen."

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